A Regular's Lament

I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.

So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.

Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)

I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.